10 / 52 rolls,,,,,HELP

Last week the roll didn’t develop because the roll unraveled and well you know what next……. this week just developed a roll of HP5 …and same thing!!!! but it didn’t unravel…….so I’m confused now! Blank neg !!! What could be wrong…..Im not doing anything any different as far as developing….Help //any ideas?

9 thoughts on “10 / 52 rolls,,,,,HELP

  1. There’s no images at all? Was it the same camera? I had that happen with a mamiya c220 tlr after I had taken it to Florida and back. Some gunk got on the aperture blades and they weren’t opening even though it sounded like they were. It doesn’t sound like a developer issue because if the camera was working SOMETHING would show up then you’d be able to tell if it was over or under development or uneven development etc. hope that helps!


    • About 6 inches of the film was black the rest was clear… when I was winding the film after every shot it didn’t sound right, like a clicking noise…do you think it’s possible I loaded it wrong.. yes same camera.. bronica etrsi


      • There is something wrong with the film back if it is sounding odd. I had a similar problem with my Hasselblad film back. Frames were not advancing and when they did there was inconsistent spacing and double exposure. Some of the gearing and the brake needed to be replaced (the repair was very expensive). It may be best to purchase another back. I would purchase it from Keh.com as they have a 90 day return policy. I purchased a Hassy back from them and had to return two before I got a good one, no questions asked. I too have trouble keeping the 120 film tight at times loading and taking it out of the camera. It requires great care. For loading I don’t take the retaining tape off until the film is mounted into the body. Then keep tension on the film with your left finger as you wind it on. Make sure you are loading the film properly into the camera, over or under the required rollers also.

        Reading again, the black frames were underexposed, the others just never advanced at all.

        Shoot a few frames with the back removed. If the camera sound normal then it is the back. Reload the dead film again. Does the film counter register at one? Take a shot and advance it.

        Stupid question, but did you take the dark slide out? If you left it in and it was not seated all the way the shutter might still fire…..

        Here is a thread that seems similar to your issue, perhaps try this and clean the contacts….http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/help-with-bronica-etrs-help-please.125531/


  2. To see if the shutter is operating.. remove the back, remove the prism… now fire differnt speeds n look through to see light as the shtter fires.​
    If I recall correctly you have to activate the double exposure function to trip the shutter when the camera’s empty. I also seem to recall it’s easy to put a loaded magazine back on without having deactivated the double exposure function so care is necessary.
    Henry Posner
    B&H Photo-Video

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Nick, did you test the shutter at all speeds? My 75mm went bad and behaved like yours. The shutter is in the lens. The mirror will work, but the shutter was erratic. Set aperture wide open, turn the camera lens towards you and test it on all speeds while watching the leaf shutter. If you don’t see it move on every shot, you’ve got some kind of problem. It could be electrical contact between lens and body, something inside the lens, or if you’re using a metered prism on auto, a problem there. You didn’t say what lens/lenses you were using. If it was all one lens, and it’s a 75mm, these go for cheap. Other lenses aren’t so cheap to replace. Good luck.
    Nick Sere 3 years ago
    Neil Kesterson:
    It is a 75mm and i did test it at a bunch of different speeds. When i was shooting i was using mostly 1/60 and above but i did test it at most if not all of the speed. I will go back and retest it at everyone just to make sure thanks.

    Is that because the film isn’t advancing correctly then? It is an ETR back on and ETRS body. Don’t know if that really matters. It still have the double latches up top and the counter went around fine.
    MrCiaranO Posted 3 years ago. Edited by MrCiaranO (member) 3 years ago
    For me yes, the film has to far a gap going on between each frame and it winds on the start of the spool far too early. That’s why that particular back will shoot 9 frames instead of 12 but will only expose 5 of them. Could be the case here. And no an ETR back on an ETRS shouldn’t make a difference although I use the SQ-A/Ai system so my answers are based on that. I can still use SQ backs on the SQ-A and SQ-Ai as well as my SQ-i backs. They should all work.
    awa54 3 years ago
    120 backs for the ETR series are cheap enough that it may be easiest to get a second back and try that (not to mention having multiple backs is a great feature)… although the way you describe it with the good frames randomly placed along the progression makes it seem like a shutter or electrical contact problem is most likely.


    • Thanks for all your help.. I will try testing it… I do have two backs… and the counter did move… I’ve probably shot 10 rolls through this already… I’ll let you know how I make out


    • i did all the things you said and this camera is working perfectly……I have this strange feeling…..it is now time to sacrifice the roll i have going now to see if its what I’m thinking……….and sure enough!!!! I must be an idiot !!! I loaded the film wrong…the paper is on the outside !!! Thank you so much for all the help you have given to me…….no clue why i did this !

      Liked by 1 person

  4. A couple of things. Yes if its making a strange noise there is a problem. I had one of my Mamiya 645 film holders go bad and did not advance film properly; gears als made odd noises. Also I have loaded the film backwards but not lately, just when I first got the camera.


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